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Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Frankenstein “Fränk”

Crocheting a spooky Frankenstein is child’s play with this simple crochet pattern. A crocheted Frankenstein is just the thing if you still need spooky guests for your Halloween party.

Content

Introduction: Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Frankenstein “Fränk”

Before we can start crocheting the Amigurumi Frankenstein, it requires a little preparation. In the following sections, you will learn more about the required skills, materials, and size. If you need help, you can simply follow the respective links.

Attention! Amigurumis are very cute and, therefore, not only popular among adults. Children often see them as toys, so you should be especially careful. Amigurumis that are not intended for play should be kept out of the reach of children. If an Amigurumi is meant to be played with by children, you should strictly adhere to the guidelines for toys. If you plan to give away or sell Amigurumis (license for sellers), you must strictly adhere to the legal requirements for toys and display the required CE marking.

Prerequisites

To implement this crochet pattern for the Amigurumi Frankenstein effortlessly, you should already be familiar with the following crochet techniques. If this is not yet the case, you will find detailed tutorials here to learn them quickly.

  • Color Change
  • Crochet Chain Stitches
  • Crochet Magic Ring
  • Crochet Slip Stitches
  • Decreases
  • Half Double Crochet Stitches (US!)
  • Increases
  • Loops of a Stitch
  • Single Crochet Stitches (US!)
  • spiral rounds
  • Turning Chain Stitches

Note! By offsetting regular increases and decreases, they become almost invisible. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you.

Note! Using a special technique for invisible decreases makes them nearly invisible. Although this technique requires a bit of practice, it’s worth giving it a try.

Supplies

The following materials were used to crochet the Amigurumi Frankenstein. You can crochet the Amigurumi Frankenstein with any yarn and a corresponding hook size. To achieve a comparable result, I recommend using materials that are as similar as possible. In addition to the materials, you will also find all the necessary tools and supplies here.

Buttons

I used one button with a diameter of 1/4 inches. The shape is heart-shaped. The shade is red. If you can’t find anything suitable in your button box, I also found some matching buttons for you.

Crochet Hook

You will need a crochet hook with a size of B or C (alphabetic) or 1 1/2 (numeric). For converting to other sizes, the crochet hook size converter will help you. I have selected some great crochet hooks for you here.

Darning Yarn

I have used darning yarn in the shade of black here. If you cannot find a suitable darning yarn in your supplies, I have already selected some for you.

Darning Yarn

I have used darning yarn in the shade of gray here. If you cannot find a suitable darning yarn in your supplies, I have already selected some for you.

Filling

For filling, I used wadding made of 100% viscose. However, there are numerous alternatives for filling material. If you’ve run out of filling, I’ve prepared a refill for you here.

Acrylic Paint

I used acrylic paint in the shade of red here. This paint is non-toxic, water-dilutable, waterproof, and adheres to almost any surface. I found a great set of acrylic paints for you to try out here.

Pins

You’ll also need a few pins. The more colorful your collection, the better. If you need more, I’ve found something for you.

Safety Eyes

I used 2 safety eyes with a diameter of 1/4 inches. The eyes are completely black. However, there are countless alternatives for amigurumi eyes. You might prefer other safety eyes as well.

Scissors

You’ll need any scissors. It’s best to use your most beautiful scissors because it brings you joy. If you don’t have really nice scissors, I’ve picked out some lovely ones for you.

Wool Needle

You’ll need a wool needle with a blunt tip. The thickness of the wool needle should match the thickness of your yarn. You might like the set of wool needles I’ve picked out for you.

Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – 389 – maigrün

I used yarn in the shade May Green. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.

Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – black – 110

I used yarn in the shade Black. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.

Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – grey – 393

I used yarn in the shade Graphite. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.

Note! I have used safety eyes here. If you have never attached safety eyes before, you can also find detailed instructions on how to attach safety eyes here. In addition to a wide selection of other safety eyes, there are also numerous alternatives for amigurumi eyes. Simply use the eyes that you like best.

Note! The specified yarn was used for the example shown here. In principle, you can use any yarn and an appropriate needle size. However, the quality of the material also affects the quality of the result, so you should avoid cutting corners in the wrong place. Also, the thickness of the yarn and the needle will influence the size of the outcome, which you can, of course, intentionally take advantage of.

Size

Here are the size specifications for the crocheted Amigurumi Frankenstein. The height was measured standing. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.

Needle SizeYardageSize
Crochet Hook B, C or 1 1/2137 yds / 1.75 oz2 2/5 inch
Crochet Hook C, D or 2 1/2120 yds / 1.75 oz3 inches
Crochet Hook E or 493 yds / 1.75 oz?
Amigurumi - Crochet Minimee Bee - Mika - Free Crochet Pattern - Tutorial

Note! If you want to change the size, you can simply use a thicker or thinner yarn with a suitable needle size. Simply doubling the rounds, rows, and stitches, on the other hand, will only result in an uneven outcome.

Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Frankenstein “Fränk”

To crochet the spooky Minimee Frankenstein, we first crochet the head and body from top to bottom in spiral rounds. Then, you’ll crochet arms and legs for the Amigurumi Frankenstein. Finally, all parts are assembled, some details are embroidered, and you can also decorate your Amigurumi Frankenstein as you like.

Crochet Head for Frankenstein (1x)

For the Frankenstein, we first crochet the head and body in one go from top to bottom in spiral rounds. You can attach safety eyes while crocheting the head if you don’t want to create other eyes. Of course, the head will also be fully filled and stuffed at the end. Since the body is crocheted directly onto the head, do not cut the yarn when the head is finished.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

  • black:
  • 1st round:
    • magic ring
    • into the magic ring:
      • 6 single crochet stitches (US!)
    • = 6 stitches
  • 2nd round:
    • double every stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 3rd round:
    • double every 2nd stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 4th round:
    • double every 3rd stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • 5th round:
    • double every 4th stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • 6th round:
    • into the back loop only:
      • every stitch one stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • green:
  • 7th – 16th round:
    • (= 9 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 30 stitches
  • 17th round:
    • into the back loop only:
      • crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • attach safety eyes, position:
    • after the 9th round
    • 5 stitches distance
  • 18th round:
    • crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 19th round:
    • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • fill and stuff completely
  • do NOT cut yarn, continue with:
    • body

Crochet Body for Frankenstein (1x)

As already described, we now crochet the body directly onto the head. If you accidentally cut the thread, it’s not a problem, as we are changing the color now anyway.

Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.

  • gray:
  • 16th round:
    • double every 4th stitch
    • = 15 stitches
  • 17th round:
    • double every 5th stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • 18th round:
    • double every 6th stitch
    • = 21 stitches
  • 19th round:
    • double every 7th stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • 20th + 21st round:
    • (= 2 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • black:
  • 22nd + 23rd round:
    • (= 2 rounds)
    • every stitch one stitch
    • = 24 stitches
  • 24th round:
    • into the back loop only:
      • crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
    • = 18 stitches
  • fill and stuff completely
  • 25th round:
    • crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
    • = 12 stitches
  • 26th round:
    • crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
    • = 6 stitches
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, close the remaining opening, secure and weave in the yarn end

Crochet Arms for Frankenstein (2x)

After the head and body are finished, we crochet two arms for Frankenstein. The arms are crocheted in just 2 rows back and forth.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

  • green:
  • 1st row:
    • 4 chain stitches
    • 2 turning chain stitches
    • = 4 stitches
  • 2nd row:
    • into one stitch:
      • 1 half double crochet stitch (US!)
      • 2 turning chain stitches
      • 1 slip stitch
    • 3x one slip stitch into one stitch
    • = 5 stitches
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for attaching

Crochet Legs for Frankenstein (2x)

Next, we crochet two legs so that your Frankenstein can wander around diligently. They are crocheted almost the same as the arms. But be careful because the emphasis is on almost.

Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.

  • black:
  • 1st row:
    • 4 chain stitches
    • 2 turning chain stitches
    • = 4 stitches
  • 2nd row:
    • into one stitch:
      • 2 half double crochet stitches (US!)
      • 2 chain stitches
      • 1 slip stitch
    • 3x one slip stitch into one stitch
    • = 8 stitches
  • cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for attaching

Finish Minimee Frankenstein

Now you’ve almost made it because all the parts are crocheted. Now you can make a first fitting and attach the individual parts to the body with pins. This helps you find the right positions, and you can still make any corrections.

Attach Arms and Legs

The arms are attached after the 15th round with about 4 stitches apart, and the legs are attached after the 22nd round with about 3 stitches apart. It helps to first find the middle based on the eyes and attach the arms and legs to the left and right of it. It is more important to maintain the same distance to the middle than to maintain the distance between the two parts exactly. For support, you can also find a tutorial here that shows you how to attach small parts to an Amigurumi.

Embroider Seam and Nails

Next, you can embroider a seam and the nails on your crocheted Frankenstein. The seam is located 2 rounds below the hairline and is simply embroidered with diagonal stitches using black darning yarn. The nails are located just above the edge of the stitches on the head, each to the right and left with about 2-3 stitches apart from the eyes. They are simply stitched around a stitch with gray yarn until they are the right size.

Create Details

If you like, you can enhance your Amigurumi Frankenstein a bit. I painted cute cheeks on him and sewed a matching heart on his chest. But feel free to let your imagination run wild and give your crocheted Frankenstein its own unique character.

Done!

He turned out spookily beautiful, don’t you think? Hopefully, no one gets too scared. But actually, our little Amigurumi Frankenstein is too cute for that, don’t you think?

If you’re up for it, you might want to crochet the other amigurumis from the Minimee series; just take a look at the patterns.

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If you urgently need a bit more luck, then you can simply shake hands with our amigurumi chimney sweep.

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If you’re in the mood for some horror stories, a terrifying amigurumi Frankenstein might share his experiences with you.

Schön, dass du da warst!

Hast du schon die Fotos vom Ribbelmonster bei Instagam entdeckt?


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