With this simple pattern, you can crochet a sweet little bee. The Minimee Bee Mika is incredibly cute and a lovely honeybee for your flowerpot or windowsill. You can also use the crocheted bee as a keychain or lucky charm.
Content
Introduction: Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Bee “Mika”
Before we start crocheting the Amigurumi Bee, it’s essential to prepare well. Here, you will find all the necessary information about prerequisites, materials, and size. Additional help is available through the corresponding links.
Attention! Amigurumis are very cute and, therefore, not only popular among adults. Children often see them as toys, so you should be especially careful. Amigurumis that are not intended for play should be kept out of the reach of children. If an Amigurumi is meant to be played with by children, you should strictly adhere to the guidelines for toys. If you plan to give away or sell Amigurumis (license for sellers), you must strictly adhere to the legal requirements for toys and display the required CE marking.
Prerequisites
You should already be familiar with the following techniques to follow this crochet pattern for an Amigurumi Bee without any problems. If you’re not yet proficient in all of them, comprehensive tutorials are available here to help you learn.
- Crochet Chain Stitches
- Crochet Magic Ring
- Crochet Slip Stitches
- Decreases
- Half Double Crochet Stitches (US!)
- Increases
- Loops of a Stitch
- Single Crochet Stitches (US!)
- spiral rounds
- Turning Chain Stitches
Note! By offsetting regular increases and decreases, they become almost invisible. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you.
Note! Using a special technique for invisible decreases makes them nearly invisible. Although this technique requires a bit of practice, it’s worth giving it a try.
Supplies
The listed materials were used to crochet the Amigurumi Bee. If you choose to use a different yarn for the Amigurumi Bee, make sure to use an appropriate needle size. For an authentic result, it is recommended to use materials as similar as possible. The following list includes all the tools and supplies used.
Crochet Hook
You will need a crochet hook with a size of B or C (alphabetic) or 1 1/2 (numeric). For converting to other sizes, the crochet hook size converter will help you. I have selected some great crochet hooks for you here.
Filling
For filling, I used wadding made of 100% viscose. However, there are numerous alternatives for filling material. If you’ve run out of filling, I’ve prepared a refill for you here.
Acrylic Paint
I used acrylic paint in the shade of pink here. This paint is non-toxic, water-dilutable, waterproof, and adheres to almost any surface. I found a great set of acrylic paints for you to try out here.
Pins
You’ll also need a few pins. The more colorful your collection, the better. If you need more, I’ve found something for you.
Ribbon – 1/5 inches – pink
I’ve used organza ribbon or satin ribbon here. The width is 1/5 inches. The color is pink. If you can’t find anything suitable, I’ve selected a set of beautiful ribbons for you here.
Safety Eyes
I used 2 safety eyes with a diameter of 1/4 inches. The eyes are completely black. However, there are countless alternatives for amigurumi eyes. You might prefer other safety eyes as well.
Scissors
You’ll need any scissors. It’s best to use your most beautiful scissors because it brings you joy. If you don’t have really nice scissors, I’ve picked out some lovely ones for you.
Wool Needle
You’ll need a wool needle with a blunt tip. The thickness of the wool needle should match the thickness of your yarn. You might like the set of wool needles I’ve picked out for you.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – black – 110
I used yarn in the shade Black. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – white – 106
I used yarn in the shade White. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Yarn – Schachenmayr – Catania – yellow – 208
I used yarn in the shade Sun. The material is 100% cotton. The yardage is 137 yds / 1.75 oz. If you want to replenish your supply, I’ve already picked out the matching yarn for you here.
Note! I have used safety eyes here. If you have never attached safety eyes before, you can also find detailed instructions on how to attach safety eyes here. In addition to a wide selection of other safety eyes, there are also numerous alternatives for amigurumi eyes. Simply use the eyes that you like best.
Note! The specified yarn was used for the example shown here. In principle, you can use any yarn and an appropriate needle size. However, the quality of the material also affects the quality of the result, so you should avoid cutting corners in the wrong place. Also, the thickness of the yarn and the needle will influence the size of the outcome, which you can, of course, intentionally take advantage of.
Size
Here are the size measurements for the crocheted Amigurumi Bee. The height was measured standing without antennae. Please note that the actual size depends on the yarn used, the size of the crochet hook, and individual crochet tension.
Needle Size | Yardage | Size |
---|---|---|
Crochet Hook B, C or 1 1/2 | 137 yds / 1.75 oz | 2 2/5 inch |
Crochet Hook C, D or 2 1/2 | 120 yds / 1.75 oz | 3 inches |
Crochet Hook E or 4 | 93 yds / 1.75 oz | ? |
Note! If you want to change the size, you can simply use a thicker or thinner yarn with a suitable needle size. Simply doubling the rounds, rows, and stitches, on the other hand, will only result in an uneven outcome.
Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi – Minimee Crochet Bee “Mika”
For the small Minimee Crochet Bee, we first crochet the head and body from top to bottom in spiral rounds. Then, you’ll crochet antennae, arms, legs, and wings for your Amigurumi Bee. Finally, all the pieces are assembled, and you can decorate your Amigurumi Bee as you like.
Head for Bee crochet (1x)
We start with the head of the Amigurumi Bee and crochet it from top to bottom in spiral rounds. Do not cut the yarn when you finish the head, as the body will be crocheted right below.
Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.
- yellow:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 single crochet stitches (US!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 3rd round:
- double every 2nd stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 4th round:
- double every 3rd stitch
- = 24 stitches
- 5th round:
- double every 4th stitch
- = 30 stitches
- 6th – 11th round:
- (= 6 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 30 stitches
- 12th round:
- into the back loop only:
- crochet together every 4th and 5th stitch
- = 24 stitches
- into the back loop only:
- attach safety eyes, position:
- after the 9th round
- 5 stitches distance
- 13th round:
- crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 14th round:
- crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
- = 12 stitches
- fill and stuff completely
- do NOT cut yarn, continue with:
- body
Body for Bee crochet (1x)
As described earlier, we now crochet the body directly onto the head. If you accidentally cut the thread, you can continue as if you were starting with a new color.
Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.
- 15th round:
- double every 4th stitch
- = 15 stitches
- black:
- 16th round:
- double every 5th stitch
- = 18 stitches
- 17th round:
- double every 6th stitch
- = 21 stitches
- yellow:
- 18th round:
- double every 7th stitch
- = 24 stitches
- 19th round:
- every stitch one stitch
- = 24 stitches
- black:
- 20th – 21st round:
- (= 2 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 24 stitches
- yellow:
- 22nd round:
- every stitch one stitch
- = 24 stitches
- 23rd round:
- into the back loop only:
- crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
- = 18 stitches
- into the back loop only:
- fill and stuff completely
- 24th round:
- crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 25th round:
- crochet together every 1st and 2nd stitch
- = 6 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, close the remaining opening, secure and weave in the yarn end
Antennae for Bee crochet (2x)
The small antennae of the Bee are quite easy to crochet. Finally, you can add a few knots to the antennae of the little Bee.
Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.
- yellow:
- 1st row:
- 10 chain stitches
- = 10 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Once your antennae are finished, tie a knot at the beginning of the chain of stitches. The thread end from the beginning is handy so you don’t hurt your fingers. However, be careful to ensure the knot sits on the chain of stitches, not the thread end. When you’re done, you can gently cut the thread end at the knot. But be careful not to cut into the knot or the chain of stitches, or it will literally disappear into thin air.
Crochet Arms for Bee (2x)
The arms of the Minimee Crochet Bee are crocheted in just two rows, once forward and once backward. It’s very easy and quick to do.
Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.
- yellow:
- 1st row:
- 4 chain stitches
- 2 turning chain stitches
- = 4 stitches
- 2nd row:
- into one stitch:
- 1 half double crochet stitch (US!)
- 2 turning chain stitches
- 1 slip stitch
- 3x one slip stitch into one stitch
- = 5 stitches
- into one stitch:
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Legs for Bee crochet (2x)
Once you’ve mastered the arms, it should be no problem to crochet a few legs for the Bee. But be careful, as there’s a small difference in the second row.
Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.
- yellow:
- 1st row:
- 4 chain stitches
- 2 turning chain stitches
- = 4 stitches
- 2nd row:
- into one stitch:
- 2 half double crochet stitches (US!)
- 2 turning chain stitches
- 1 slip stitch
- 3x one slip stitch into one stitch
- = 6 stitches
- into one stitch:
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Wings for Bee crochet (2x)
Next, we crochet the wings for the Mini Bee in spiral rounds. We start at the outer curve and work our way to the base. Since the crocheted Bee has 2 wings, you should, of course, crochet 2 wings.
Note! If you want to achieve a particularly beautiful result, you can hide regular increases and decreases by offsetting them a little. You can recognize regular increases by the phrase “double every … stitch,” and regular decreases by the phrase “crochet together every … and … stitch”. The stitch chart for spheres and circles might also be helpful for you. Additionally, you can apply a special crochet technique here for invisible decreases.
Note! If you want to create several nearly identical parts, it’s advisable to work on them consecutively on the same day. For larger parts, it’s even recommended to work on them simultaneously in stages. Our tension and tightness can vary from day to day, leading to visible differences.
- white:
- 1st round:
- magic ring
- into the magic ring:
- 6 single crochet stitches (US!)
- = 6 stitches
- 2nd round:
- double every stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 3rd – 5th round:
- (= 3 rounds)
- every stitch one stitch
- = 12 stitches
- 6th round:
- crochet together every 3rd and 4th stitch
- = 9 stitches
- 7th round:
- crochet together every 2nd and 3rd stitch
- = 6 stitches
- cut yarn generously, pull through loop, do NOT cut the yarn end, it will be used later for sewing
Finish Minimee Bee
Now you’re almost done because all the pieces are crocheted. You can now do a trial assembly and attach the individual pieces to the body with pins. This helps you find the right positions, and you can still make corrections.
Attach Arms, Legs, and Antennae
Attach the antennae to the top of the head. They should be seen from above in a line through the middle of the head and parallel to the eyes. The arms are attached after the 15th round with about 4 stitches apart, and the legs are attached after the 22nd round with about 3 stitches apart. It helps to first locate the middle using the eyes and attach the arms and legs to the left and right of it. It is more important to maintain the same distance to the middle than to precisely match the distance between the two parts. For support, you can also find a pattern here that shows you how to attach small parts to an Amigurumi.
Sew Wings onto Body
Fold the two wings of the Bee flat and sew them with the thread ends to the back of the Bee. The open sides of the wings run vertically to the middle of the back and point once to the right and once to the left.
Create Details
If you like, you can add some embellishments to your Amigurumi Bee. I painted cute cheeks on her and tied a matching bow around her neck. But feel free to get creative and give your Bee a unique character.
Done!
Your little Amigurumi Bee is now complete! You’ll surely find a beautiful flower for her to diligently sip fresh nectar and make delicious honey. Did you know that the little Bee and the little Bumblebee are best friends?
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